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Birds
Clicker training your bird

 

Clicker training is the best way to teach your bird to behave!especially if you have a problem, you will be surprised at how effective clicker training is. We have a book available - "the click that does the trick" - which is really a must as well as "the problem parrot guide" which should be owned by any serious hand raised bird owner.

 

Clicker training is based on getting an animal to perform a task without force. The results are quite impressive and fast. Most animals are trained professionally by this method.


 

First, buy a clicker.... we have them available on this website. It also helps to have a bird to try it on!

 

Second, you need a target. A chopstick or plastic knitting needle with the end blunted would be fine. We sell a suitable stick on the site.

 

Third, you need the bird's favourite food. Spend a while finding it - chocolate isnt generally recommended but dog carob training chocolate drops are a sure starter. You will need to work out it's favourite food if you don't already know it. It will begin sessions anticipating this treat, but eventually training sessions will probably become plain old fun that just happens to include a favorite treat! They need to be one bite sized morsels and dehulled if theyre a seed.

 

Training should be done on a perch or a table not associated with the birds cage.

 

Start with two to five minutes per session unless both parties are just having too much fun to quit.End with an easy trick that you can reward for to finish well.

 

The first thing to get sorted is Grab.Slowly move your target towards the bird. If he moves for it, bites it or goes for it in any way, click and then feed him a morsel. Click for ANY movement toward the stick if there's no interest or fear.

 

Step up is easy - say "step up" and press the stick into his body gently, just above his legs. When he steps, make a click and give him a morsel.

 

Practise makes perfect, ten times repetition is about good for starting out. Go easy on early sessions, trying to get the bird to maybe touch the stick only on the first time. Step up may take 3-4 sessions. Make sure its in a reasonably quiet area that doesnt have too many distractions.

 

Once your bird is touching the stick without biting or running away, move it so that he has to go get it. You should then be able to get him to chase it!

 

The training is fun to this extent, but now you can start training the bird to do tricks . The key is breaking things down into actions and building one on another, and stop click and treat as the bird gets a handle on each progressive part. Once complete, click and treat for perfect actions.

 

Bad behavior in parrots generally stops when clicker training is initiated. If it does not, use the clicker and treat to reward desirable behavior (e.g. If your bird is screaming, click during the seconds when it takes a break and offer a treat) .

 

Take regular breaks and give the bird a few days break if training isnt progressing.

 

For more info, see the books mentioned above! Happy clicking!

 

 

 



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Worming Birds

The Wriggly Problem

Worms may become a problem in conditions of overcrowding and inadequate nutrition,particularly a deficiency of vitamin A which will make birds more susceptible. The best defence against worms is good management and good diet. We have an organic vitamin and mineral supplement available that we have had excellent reports on.... please see our bird section.

When worms are present the most efficient way to control them is to break the life cycle in some way and so prevent constant reinfestation. Since worm eggs are either ingested by birds directly or via an intermediate host infestation can be significantly reduce by preventing contact between birds and droppings. Keeping them on wire will remove a lot of faeces.

The worms that may be seen in domestic and exotic birds are: Roundworm (Ascaridia spp), Caecal worm (Heterakis spp), Threadworm (Capillaria spp), Gape worm (Syngamus spp) and Gizzard worm (Acuaria spp).

Worms live in the intestine of the bird and the eggs are lost in the faeces and go on to infect other birds. When infected ,a bird shows symptoms such as to diarrhoea, weight loss, malnutrition and death.

It is often assumed that if a bird is alone in a cage it won't get worms.  If other birds visit while the cage is outside they may bring worms in their droppings. Insects (grasshoppers, cockroaches & earthworms) are the intermediate hosts of many worms so if your bird/s is exposed or fed these they can become infected. When treating birds for worms with any other wormer it is important to sterilise the cage at the same time to prevent reinfestation following treatment from a contaminated cage.

Treatments

Avitrol: (Levamisole & Praziquantel) this is an all round excellent treatment for roundworm and hairworm. This is administered in the birds water and is left in for a 24 hour period. Excellent results for most birds.

Aviverm: (Levamisole Hydrochloride) - used for poultry and where a lot of birds need to be dosed. Drinking water for medium to large parrots and parakeets. Withhold water 2 hours before end of day and put the dosed water into the aviary in the morning - leave for the duration of the day then remove. 

Other methods of worming are available - please email us for information.

Aviary treatments for worms:

Once a year, birds should be removed from the aviaries and the ground sprayed with Bleach (sodium hypochlorite - 37.5g/l domestic strength) , mix 1 cup bleach per 5L water and spray apply over 5m2. After three weeks, turn the dirt over to ensure that the worm eggs are inactivated.

It is important to introduce young birds onto clean ground that has been disinfected after being used with old birds. Young and baby birds have little resistance to worms and will quickly become infected. Areas around water troughs are most dangerous as they can provide moisture for the worm eggs to survive.

Worm and quarantine new arrivals as they must be assumed carriers of worms until proven clean. It may be difficult to prevent birds having contact with the intermediate hosts of tapeworms but removal of breeding places for flies will help. Remove damp dark areas - sunlight is an effective sterilant of soil also.